All that information led them to conclude that New York water can't take the credit for the finished product of the bagel. This makes a difference on several levels. A longer rest makes a lighter, more open, bagel and a shorter rest makes bagels that are a too dense, 10-12 hours gave me that characteristic texture I was looking for. The lye increases the pH level of the water the bagels are boiled in, which results in an extra-crisp, almost pretzel-like crust. the rising agents would not affect the texture. Well happens to be we really don’t cook a lot with bases. Another sticking point is the water’s pH. New York’s finest clocks in around 7.2 on the pH scale, or just about neutral (a pH of 7.0 is considered pure water). A lab analysis revealed that New York water did have a different pH level and lower amounts of calcium carbonate and magnesium than other cities, but also tested the pH levels in the finished bagels they baked, and found a minuscule difference between those made in … Shazimzam – Senor Chieftain Maillard once again. Blood pH may range from 7.35 to 7.45, but the pH value is really quite tightly controlled by the body. Initially, I was too busy shoveling spoonfuls of caramelized shallot and bacon schmear into my mouth to notice the chew. If you’re boiling the bagels in a 1 liter pan of boiling water that water contains about 415kJ of energy. The real secret to producing a NYC deli-quality bagel is boiling them in a baking soda solution prior to baking in the oven; doing so is what creates their signature texture and flavor, and aids in the browning process by increasing the surface PH … but, i could be mistaken. I do the reading so you don’t have to, and you can go back to watching Toddlers and Tiaras! There's no disputing the greatness of New York City bagels. If there’s one thing I’ve been wanting to make for some time now, it’s bagels. Ok so bagels, what can be so complicated about it right? Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Graf explains that even a very small amount of lye — at a concentration that’s entirely safe to handle — dramatically increases the pH level of the water, resulting in a crispier, browner crust. 2 Laminated enlarged color pH scales, refer to figure 8 for photograph Handouts ' You are what you eat: pH in food!' The best recipes, kitchen tips and genius food facts. The theory behind an alkaline diet is that, when you eat a less-acidic diet, your body (specifically the kidneys) has to do less to help you maintain the optimal pH. Many people claim that the water in New York is what changes the taste of bagels, something that has been a frequent source of debate. ( Log Out / If you are not aware of how the pH scale works: it is based on values from 0-14, with values from 0-6.9 indicating acidity, and those from 7.1-14 indicating alkalinity. The problem is, I couldn’t just look up a recipe, and make it, I had to understand what I was doing. So what is it then that makes NYC bagels so glorious? Anyway, all you have to do is take the baking soda and spread it on an even layer on a baking sheet, and bake for an hour at about 250 degrees. In this current world, where we can get whatever we want whenever we want it, why can't we get good bagels in every single city of these United States? With out getting too much into it, it looks something like this: Side point – this is me keeping it simple…yeah I have a problem. wow, i feel like a Barrons Regent book just hit me in my head.. Oh man if only I could remember our chemistry teacher I would totally make some sort of joke with that, but alas, I can’t, harumph. lower levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium, one of the reasons New York City bagels are so great. We actually spoke about it a loooong time ago, and quick review – the Maillard reaction for all intents and purposes is responsible for any browning that goes on in the kitchen. A more basic or acidic liquid disrupts fermentation and the way proteins in the mixture denature, causing the dough to become sluggish or throw off the flavor. ( Log Out / Photo credit: najjie/Flickr. https://foodary.com/164/acid-alkaline-baked-products-food-chart Ok if you look at water, which we all know is H20, it’s amazingly compromised of one H+ part and another OH- part (that’s the base part). It may be useful to assign a number to your level of … So it is slightly alkiline (although at that levels, it really doesn’t mean anything) So we’re trying to make bread, and specifically bagels, which are traditionally dark and hard on the outside, so it would make sense to somehow incorporate a basic substance in it so it browns better. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! Next, they sent samples of both waters they used in their bagels to the lab. They found that there was indeed a difference in pH levels. First of all, NYC water is around 7.2 ph, not that much different than most drinking water , which is never pure h2o And why were you talking about acidity? Ok, so maybe the “water being different” makes a difference. Caption: Bagels left out to ferment. Some doctors and nutritionists believe that maintaining our body's pH level is essential to our health. This explains why in other metropolitan locales with harder water, the bagels come out tougher -- the hardness of the water toughens up the gluten. Anything with a pH above 7.0 is considered alkaline, or basic, with the highest level of alkalinity being 14.0. After eating a specific type of bagel or brand of cream cheese, enter any symptoms of reflux you experience. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. You see, my passion addiction for cooking really hit full throttle when I picked up Harold McGee’s book On food and Cooking. They figured out that, yes, the water in New York City does make a difference, but tweaking the PH levels of San Francisco tap water helps approximate it. Baking Soda is Sodium BiCarbonate, which in chemistary-ese is – Na-HCO3. First, what makes a bagel a bagel – Bagels are rounds of dough, that generally shaped in the shape of a …bagel (really? They have a water filtration system designed to replicate the pH levels of New York water! It also has to do with the fact that Jews lived there, and they were the bakers who brought over the bagel from the “old country”. Well as we know, charges that are alike will repel each other, so the only place a positive charge can go to, is a negative spot. secondly, i am pretty sure that it also has to do with the rising agents, and the yeast in the air. So just trust me on this one, that means, that only the other 2 Os can accept positive charges. Lastly, America's Test Kitchen tested the pH levels in the bagels after they'd fermented (yes, their recipe leaves the bagels out overnight to ferment -- this in fact is actually one of the reasons New York City bagels are so great) and the difference was miniscule. If you use steam on the other hand in that same 1 liter volume you’ll have less than 0.001kg of steam. Baking bread? ), they are then boiled in water for a short period of time, and then baked in the oven. It would open up another spot to accept that positive charge, and make it a stronger base (It still won’t be as strong as lye, but it’s a start). Before you start your week tomorrow, end your weekend off right with Bagels Our specialty bagels today are Candy Cane (Rainbow) ️, Buckwheat, and Cranberry Orange Buy a delicious bag of our Three Bean blend from @norfolkcoffeeandtea for $11.99☕️ Gift cards available for purchase in store or online through our website! Water White bread (bagel, refer to figures 2 and 3 for photographs Turkey American cheese, refer to figure 4 for photograph Orange, refer to figure 5 for photograph Lemon, refer to figure 6 for photograph Now whenever people talk of pH we’re measuring acidity (it’s a measure of the “H+”, hence the pH and yeah, there’s something called a pOH also, which would measure the basicness). The most popular explanation for NY bagels' glory is the New York City water. Water has a neutral pH of 7.0. Pure water has a pH of 7. They have a great one to check out. A new water filtration system says it can raise out-of-state bagels to New York levels. Any bagel eaten too far outside of the city limits (with the exception of Montreal) is usually a dense, brick round of dough that has to be toasted in order to become edible. Using a slotted spoon, lower a few bagels at a time into the water. Now whenever people talk of pH we’re measuring acidity (it’s a measure of the “H+”, hence the p H and yeah, there’s something called a pOH also, which would measure the basicness). Well let’s go through it together (I hope you brought your thinking hats on today). I’m such an altruist. This is why pure water is neither acidic nor basic, it’s neutral (which on the pH scale is a 7). Go ahead and try it, and enjoy great NYC bagels no matter where you are. This easy-to-follow recipe yields a dense bagel with a nice level of chew, and a fantastic outer crust. Caption: Bagels being poached before baking. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. The intermediate value of 7.0 indicates a neutral position on the scale. When the bagels are ready fill a large saucepan with water and add the barley malt syrup and bring to the boil. Which happens to not be such a strong base. Click to email this to a friend (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window), Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window), Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window). pH level. Cover with a tea towel and let rest for 10 minutes. Well it turns out you can do that, and pretty easily. A tiny amount of lye dramatically increases the pH level of the water, Mr. Graf said, which results in the crispy brown crust. The human body, its blood and all its liquid media have a measurable pH. That’s exclusively a sugar reaction, as if you were making caramel with sugar and water (hence the name). Anything below that is considered acidic, with 1.0 being the highest level of acidity. Ok where am I going with this? New York water, reports Gizmodo, has lower levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium. Now if you look at the above picture, forget the Na+, and you’ll see there are three Os (which have negative charges), but one has an H on it already. Image by VectorStock. And can you find that type of bagel in supermarkets. And in regards to the yeast or rising agents, that would affect the amount of lift the bagel has, and it would also affect the flavor subtly (like with sourdough), but I don’t think it would affect the overall texture of the bread, and make it brown more or not. But more on this another time.). (where they are located). But Formoli learned about a secret ingredient from Graf: lye, or sodium hydroxide. This is a crucial step in making NYC bagels. Considering the length of this post, I’m gonna stop here and continue with the actual making and baking of the bagels, hopefully tomorrow. (FYI – This isn’t the same as caramelizing, like we do with onions. While waiting, preheat the oven to 220°C/430°F and bring a large pot of water to a boil, then reduce heat to just below a simmer. Graf explains that even a very small amount of lye — at a concentration that’s entirely safe to handle — dramatically increases the pH level of the water, resulting in a crispier, browner crust. After extensive research, Rosen decided to alter the water he uses for boiling bagels to mimic the pH level of northeastern water. Student's Materials. While Noah’s Bagels, for example, cooks their pudgy orbs in steam ovens, real bagel purveyors boil and bake them separately. Furthermore, for many people with severe reflux, though the good-foods-for-reflux diet may be limited, for the first two weeks of the reflux diet, we recommend only eating foods that are pH 5 or above. Our bodies have a pH level of around 7.4, and the food we eat can change our pH level in either direction. Now here’s the part where we take a detour into chemistry land for a bit. But America's Test Kitchen doesn't buy that excuse. Simple enough right? The only readily available base in your kitchen is baking soda. The Maillard reaction includes proteins, which break down into it’s building blocks (amino acids) and react with sugar, and voila you got some tasty morsels. Do you remember the Maillard reaction? They have a water filtration system inside specifically designed to replicate the pH levels of New York water. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. This explains why in other metropolitan locales with harder water, the bagels come out tougher -- the hardness of the water toughens up the gluten. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. What it looks like is that more general degrees (i.e., PhD, Master’s, Bachelor’s) are getting liked the least, which I think might have to do with their lack of specificity — you could be studying anything from dance to chemical engineering, so your area of study is probably more important to bagels than your level … He credits his “signature crust and chew that defines a traditional bagel” to small details. Awesome…ok wait, what exactly is a basic material? This easy-to-follow recipe yields a dense bagel with a nice level of chew, and a fantastic outer crust. Part of HuffPost Food & Drink. ( Log Out / Ok so now that we have a stronger base, we can go on to making our bagels…but it’ll have to wait. Their bagels are proofed overnight on wooden boards dusted with cornmeal (which imparts a thick crust), hand-rolled, boiled and baked. They found that there was indeed a difference in pH levels. The Cohens say this is the secret to creating a proper NY bagel. That amount of steam contains less than a hundredth of … Is that a New York bagel? The scale ranges from 1 to 14, with 1 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. However, what if we can get rid of that stupid pesky H that’s clinging for dear life to that O? Solutions with a pH less than 7 are said to be acidic (such as lemon juice, which has a pH around 2) while solutions with a pH more than 7 are said to be basic or alkaline (such as ammonia, which has a pH … Now as I said baking soda is not really a strong base, but the alternative to making good bagels at home is using lye, which as I said before is very caustic, and you’d have to order it online. First, the cooks at America's Test Kitchen whipped up a batch of bagels with water from Brooklyn and a batch with water from Brookline, Mass. According to Dianna Daoheung, executive baker at Black Seed Bagels, some bagel shops around the country often opt to ship New York water to their stores or install filtration systems to mirror the pH levels, attempting to replicate New York-style bagels as closely as possible. true. ( Log Out / The only thing I can come up with is, when people say that the water is different, they mean the water is “harder.” Hard water is water that has more dissolved minerals in it, specifically calcium and magnesium, which readily make calcium carbonate scales (hence the build up that comes with hard water), and that “carbonate” part is very similar to the “bi-carbonate” part of our sodium bicarbonate. It’s not as strong as lye, but it is somewhat of an irritant, so I wouldn’t handle with bare hands, but you can just pour the baked baking soda directly into the simmering water. Natives -- like Larry King -- maintain that there is something in the water that makes their product impossible to replicate outside of the five boroughs. They put the theory to the test -- a few theories, actually -- and what they found was that it is indeed bogus. So it’s possible that in harder waters, it’s more basic, and therefore bagels boiled in that water, would then take a faster ride on the Maillard roller coaster, and give us bagels that are browned really nice. Just take the baking soda and bake it. I meant that the NY bagels are different because of the unique rising agents. Well if you ever ask someone about bagels and where they originated, or where the best place to get one is, they would probably answer you the best bagels are from New York, and because the “water is different there.” Has anyone stopped for a second and thought about that? you’re not sure what shape it is? A blind side-by-side tasting proved no difference -- at all. Place bagels on a lightly greased or lined baking tray. Acids are those things that donate a positive charge (a proton, H+), and bases are those things that accept positive charges (-OH). Your welcome. Brooklyn Bagels is at Brooklyn Bagels . pH level is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. New York water, reports Gizmodo, has lower levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium . This may help you determine which types of bagels or cream cheese products are safe and which ones are triggers. Remember the pH acidity scale is logarithmic, so that pH 4 is ten-times (10x) as acidic as pH 5. Recipes and more delivered to your inbox! ©2021 BuzzFeed, Inc. All rights reserved. Your lungs and kidneys are the major organs responsible for controlling your blood pH. Bagels are harder to come by in these parts, ... Rosen’s founder has experience in fine dining and went as far as to alter the pH levels of Austin tap water to recreate a New York bagel. According to America's Test Kitchen, it's all about the recipe. When you are almost ready to bake preheat the oven to 200C(390F). Change ). In answer to the question we said above about water being different. And what is that white butter that tastes nothing like … According to the LA Times, that's a crucial ingredient to replicating the Big Apple's recipe at home. Photo credit: HaleySuzanne/Flickr. There’s like a billion pages, and it’s full of really useful information, which you’d probably think is more boring than watching paint dry, and that’s where I come in. I’m sure you’ve all heard of acids and bases, but for all of those who never took chemistry, here’s a quick run-down. It's not like Thomas that you have to toast it, instead it's edible and white, like Wonder Bread, on the inside (the inside of the bread that is). I saw this in an article by Harold McGee, where he discusses how to make pretzels at home, and I figured I’d give it a try for bagels as well. Well for reasons outside of the scope of this blog (read – I have no idea), the Maillard reaction happens faster in a basic environment. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.